Walangkarr trek, 20th March - 12th April, 2003

Several parties with varying objectives set out on a trek that was to take 25 days to complete. Consisting of eight camels from cameleer Harry Watson a great distance needed to be covered before the basis of the project (Fire Control) could take place. Before the first fire was to be lit, Harry and three boys with various problems had to cover over 150km on foot first.
The most difficult part of the trip was co-ordinating the crossing of the Fitzroy River with the camels. Due to late rains Harry made the decision to take his camels over the river via Willare Bridge, a long single lane bridge not made for camels. Logistics in place, a large group turned up to help guide the camels safely over the bridge and onto the long walk to Walangkarr and the edge of the Great Sandy Desert. The camels never seemed too fussed, just happy to move along at ambling pace.

With the first party departed, much needed to fall in place for the second group to make final arrangements and meet on time at Mowla Bluff Station a week after. Harry and the boys would be on their own, zig zagging south in search of food for the camels and themselves. Few supplies were taken; stripping needs right back to basics. For the next week Harry and the boys would be living off whatever they could hunt or find. Harry's confidence wasn't exactly washing off on the boys however those in the know, knew all to well of the abundant feasts that awaited them.

All week great storms rolled in the skies above and back at home we knew the hidings the party out bush must have been getting. All we could do was hope they were happy enough and by next week the monsoon will have moved North on its seasonal path to Asia. Although the rains this season had been scarce, localized storms still pummeled the earth with heavy and drenching rain.

With our intended destination the cut away country at the edge of the Great Sandy Desert, this late rain was cause for concern. A brief, powerful storm could quickly fill the many small but deep gorges and creeks washing away any unsuspecting walkers. With judgment and experience as our guide the elders of this country assured us the party would be safe.

The week rolled by with hast and with logistics all but finalized it was time for the follow up party to head for Mowla Bluff. Will the fire man was waiting for us half way and after a quick yarn we were off.

The drive to Mowla Bluff is spectacular; however traveling at such speed hardly allows interaction with the country. In no time the homesteads water tank rose out of the desert and the next stage of this expedition was to begin.

Harry and the boys were very happy to see us but more so the fresh supplies. The constant rain had ruined tea bags, sugar and the little packaged food they had carried. The boys were quick to devour a kilo of sugar setting the scene for a very sweet couple of days. With the homestead lit up by fire and a spectacular sunset, stories of the past week were told and crucial plans for the following weeks laid out. Beside the thirsty mozzies it was a perfect night to prepare for the following trek.

Well before sun up the camels were packed and the next stage of our trek had begun. By 8.00am we had covered some 15kms, the temperature had soared well above thirty degrees and the starting party were giving us new arrivals no time to increase fitness. Following the Mowla Bluff and Dampier Downs boundary south east, we slumped under the only tree giving shade for miles severely dehydrated and feeling considerably uncomfortable. Our mental and physical strength were sure to be tested.

Without the excitement of several hours before, we packed the camels and headed for dinner camp at the base of the Edgar Range. With each person consuming about five liters of water by midday, our water resources were very much at risk. After all, we were in the desert and although it had rained heavily on the trek out to Mowla Bluff, storms are extremely localized.

With thirty kilometers of undulating desert behind us, the rugged escarpment of the Edgar Range was and exciting landscape. Dark shadows in the walls of the escarpment led to exciting talk of deep gorges and cold waterholes. The thought of cool, clean water subconsciously picked up the pace of our tired train and we trudged forward in anticipation.

An area thick with camel feed was to be our camp and within minutes gear was unpacked and the billy boiled. With energy and fitness on their side a few of the younger blokes headed off to explore the alluring gorge just over the dry creek bed. The less enthusiastic and down right exhausted stayed back, sipping on sweet tea in a futile attempt at re-hydration.

The returning crew did not have the enthusiasm expected and their explanations soon gave reason. There was indeed a magnificent waterhole inside the gorge however, the 30 dead cattle lining the waterhole detracted from the hole scene. It would seem the cattle rushed the waterhole after first rain of the wet season only to become trapped due to rising water thus starving to death. Although this was awful news, more worrying was the contamination factor. Being unable to refill water bottles would be a disaster. Harry and Johnny seemed unfazed therefore so to did the camp.

With the morning star bright, but the sun not even throwing light, again we were packed and walking. The cool mornings were bliss compared to the stifling afternoons; aching muscles were soon loose and flexible. Having the camels to carry the weight was life saving. With no water I was quietly concerned however sure enough there was no need as some 2km around the escarpment another wonderful waterhole showed itself; this time, free of rotting cattle. Heavenly cold, thirst was quenched and spirits lifted.

With the real business of burning several days away, there was ample time for exploring the range. A passion of both John and Harry's to search for remains of their ancestors massacred in this area was a great experience. Both had spoken of such a trip for decades and young people felt very privileged to be taking part. Enormous volumes of water and intense fires made searching very difficult. What monsoonal floods had not carried away, wildfire had decimated.

For several intensely hot days we followed the range east, taking in everything this magnificent place had to offer. Young broken spirits were being repaired and a sense of belief was slowly returning. Each day a discovery took place both physically and emotionally. The challenging conditions combined with a spectacular landscape and increasing sense of place was developing into a successful form of therapy. A particular highlight was the discovery of a cave and soak. It was clearly evident from the grindings and ashes that this camp had been used for many years.

A particularly memorable moment in these first few days was the groups developing likeness for orange colored water. The orange colour came about by the large concentration of silt in the water, especially after the camels had walked through the water and pee'd in it. It was an interesting feeling coming second to a train of camels for scarce drinking water. For whatever reason all our stomachs handled the soupy mess well and the damage to our kidneys won't be known for several years yet.

As we rounded the jutting headland of Mowla Bluff the major purpose of our trip unveiled before us. Thick scrub greeted us all the way to blue hole, a water hole we all new well from wildlife surveys last year. The challenge ahead was to burn this country without damaging old growth trees already decimated by previous wildfire. Over dinner under a glorious sunset a plan was devised between elders John and Harry, fire man Will and the rest of the crew. It was great to see everyone comfortably having their say and being genuinely listened to. It was evident all had learnt a great deal during this trip and the next week of intense work would only consolidate this.

By sunrise the sky was grey with smoke and flames leapt high into the air. A light wind fanned the flames north leaving the ground cleared without damage. Moving east many small pockets of scrub were lit and by days end from high upon the escarpment our work could be viewed. The old fellas in particular were extremely pleased to see traditional methods being utilized once again. Before us was justification that on foot, burning small pockets in a controlled fashion led to country being burnt more effectively. As the day faded away, several Australian Bastards glided in to make the most of the freshly opened country. This was immediate evidence to the success of our practices.

For several more days we wandered east at ambling pace, burning small patches as we went. Waking up frightfully early one morning it was a silent decision that this would be the day we set out for home. Being some 35kms away the entire camp new what lay ahead and without word the camp was packed, water bottles filled, emptied then filled again and silently we left our final camp for home. Burning as we went a ridiculous pace was set and before long muscles were beginning to scream. A lonely bullock fat from the wet was our saving grace. Kimberley quickly took chase and before long we were all tucking into the juiciest of rib bones, soon refreshed and charged again. Filling saddle bags with all the meat possible we trekked forward again for seemed at several stages to be an impossible task. As exhausted tempers were beginning to flare and legs threatening to give out the most tremendous cool change met us face on. Everyone including the camels seemed to snatch a second wind and as the final throws of sunlight showered the spinifex we stumbled exhausted into Mowla Bluff Station.

With 210 kilometers covered in the ten days, all were exhausted beyond belief. For the majority of the party a fast and comfortable motor car would be our transport home. For Harry and few eager new arrivals the open plains to Jarlmadangah would be trekked for another week. Amazingly Harry could not think of anything better and with just a swag, billy can and a few tea bags, his camels and a few uncertain boys were gone. Only the photos can explain the personal growth that took place and there is evidence that healthy country does make for healthy people. This will be one story these boys and old men carry as strength for a very long time.